职场女性不穿太高跟的鞋子

On television there’s no shortage of professional women. From Lipstick Jungle to House, The Office to Nip/Tuck, examples of smart women doing smart things abound, especially on US TV. But what about the clothes? Yes, they’re smart, but are they realistic? Not at all.
电视剧中的职业女性没有弱点。从《口红森林》到《豪斯医生》,从《办公室》到《整容室》,到处都能看到聪明的女人在做着聪明的事情,尤其是美剧中。但是她们的着装如何呢?是,她们很能干,但是她们现实吗?一点也不。

“You’ve got to be able to run up stairs and chase down taxis,” says Johanna Waterous, a former McKinsey & Company executive who now sits on the board of several companies. “I see programmes like Lipstick Jungle, where the women walk around in 5in heels, with outrageous jewellery and low necklines. That isn’t practical.”
麦肯锡的前高管、现任多家公司董事的乔安娜·沃特斯说,“你很可能不得不跑上楼梯、赶出租车,我看到《口红森林》中的女性穿着5英寸高的高跟鞋、浑身珠光宝气,衣领开的也很低。这可一点都不现实。”

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职场女性穿着不宜太暴露

According to Britt Lintner, a London-based hedge fund manager who also designs a line of chic, work-appropriate dresses and separates in her spare time, the rules are simple: “Stick to muted colours, avoid being too sexy, and never over-accessorise.”
伦敦一位对冲基金经理布瑞特·林特纳在自己空闲的时候会设计一些高雅的适合工作穿着的套装,她说职场着装的规则很简单:“坚持使用柔和的色彩,避免太过性感,永远不要有过多的装饰。”

And then there is the question – or rather the problem – of how the clothes fit, since the difference between overly snug and appropriately fitted may make the difference between landing a job or being shown the door.
既然合适的衣服可能给你带来一份工作,而过于紧身的衣服则可能直接让你被扫地出门,那么就有了一个问题,或者说一个难题——什么样的衣服才合适呢?

“The last thing I want to play to is sex appeal,” says Ida Liu, head of the fashion retail group in Citibank’s private banking arm in New York. Liu, who can usually be found in well-tailored (but never tight) black Prada and Dolce & Gabbana skirt suits during office hours, sets such a good example that the bank tapped her to run seminars on professional dressing.
花旗驻纽约的私人银行业务部门的时尚零售集团主管伊达·刘为我们树立了一个榜样。她说,“我最不希望给人留下的印象就是性感。”她在办公室里总是穿着剪裁合适(不紧身)的黑色普拉达和杜嘉班纳裙装,连银行都指定她主持有关职业着装的会议。

She points to a recent episode of the TV drama Dirty Sexy Money in which the actress Lucy Liu (no relation), who depicts a powerful attorney, wears a spate of overtly suggestive suits. “In reality I don’t think that is the signal you want to send to your clients,” says Citibank’s Liu.
她指出刘玉玲在美剧《黑金诱惑》中扮演一位有权势的律师,穿的衣服有大量的性暗示。她说,“在现实生活中那一定不会是你想传达给客户的信号。”

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职场穿衣不宜太贴身

The same can be said for medical drama House, in which Cuddy, the hospital administrator played by actress Lisa Edelstein, is routinely dressed in 4in heels and low-cut blouses. “The skirts cling to her behind, the jackets cling to her bosom,” laments Barbara Ruelens, a UK-based wardrobe consultant with a roster of high-powered female clients.
医疗剧《豪斯医生》也有这个问题,剧中Lisa Edelstein扮演的医院主管Cuddy总是穿着4寸高跟鞋和低领上衣。拥有许多有权势女性客户的驻英国服装咨询顾问芭芭拉·吕埃朗丝说,“她的裙子紧贴着她的屁股,上衣紧贴她的胸”。

Should we take our cues from these TV counterparts?
我们应该从电视剧中得到穿衣的启示吗?

The answer may depend on what industry you work in, says Johanna Waterous. “You don’t have to look like a man but you do have to look like you mean business.”
答案也许要看你从事的行业。乔安娜·沃特斯说,“你不需要穿的像男人一样,但是一定要看上去很职业。”

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看她们穿什么:口红森林

What they wear:

movie executive Wendy Healy (Brooke Shields) dresses in classic blouses and draped pieces. Magazine editor Nico Reilly (Kim Raver) vamps it up in form-fitting sheath dresses. Fashion designer Victory Ford’s (Lindsay Price) flirty ensembles include lots of ruffles, layers and bright colours.

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她们穿什么:

电影制片人Wendy Healy总是穿着经典款上衣和有褶皱的裙子。杂志编辑Nico Reilly搭配的是很显身材的职业装;时尚设计师Victory Ford轻佻挑逗的服装中包括大量的褶皱花边、层次和明亮的色彩。


跟她们学什么:口红森林

What’s worth taking away: the statement jewellery.

What’s not: bright colours look great on TV but may be too distracting for some offices.

应该学习的: 有个性的珠宝。

不应该学习的: 明亮的色彩在电视上很好看,但是在某些办公室里就太让人分心了。

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跟她们学什么:整容室

What they wear:

child psychiatrist and author Dr Erica Noughton (Vanessa Redgrave) wears draped clothing in soothing colours and flats or kitten heels. Psychiatrist Dr Faith Wolper (Brooke Shields) dons silky blouses in jewel tones, with high heels and trumpet skirts.

她们穿什么:

儿童心理学家和作家Erica Noughton博士穿着有褶皱的色彩柔和的衣服以及低跟或者平跟的鞋子。精神病学家Faith Wolper博士穿着有珠宝色的丝绸上衣以及喇叭裙和高跟鞋。

What’s worth taking away: fit matters. Make sure yours is just right.

What’s not: black leather trousers on an anaesthetist would not inspire confidence.

值得学习的: 适合的问题,适合自己的就是最好的。

不值得学习的: 黑色皮裤穿在麻醉师身上可有点让人不太放心。

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看她们穿什么:黑金诱惑

What they wear:

lawyer Nola Lyons (Lucy Liu) wears tight-fitting suits with serious heels.

她们穿什么:

律师Nola Lyons穿的是紧身套装和高跟鞋。

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跟她们学什么:黑金诱惑

What’s worth taking away: luxurious fabrics that look rich.

What’s not: save the heels for cocktail hour.

应该学习的:豪华织物看上去很富有。

不应该学习的:高跟鞋留着鸡尾酒会上穿吧。

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跟她们学什么:办公室

What they wear:

receptionist Pam Beesly (Jenna Fischer) wears pastel twinsets while administrative assistant Angela Martin (Angela Kinsey) chooses prim high-necked blouses.

她们穿什么:

接待员Pam Beesly穿的是淡色的两件套,行政助理Angela Martin选择的是规矩的高领上装。

What’s worth taking away: colour lovers can get their fix with pastels.

What’s not: these girls don’t usually wear jackets but should.

值得学习的:喜欢颜色的人可以找到合适的淡色穿着。

不值得学习的:这些女孩应该多穿上衣。

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跟她们学什么:豪斯医生

What they wear:

Dr Lisa Cuddy (Lisa Edelstein) wears fitted designer skirt suits with low-cut tops and high heels. Dr Allison Cameron (Jennifer Morrison) favours neutral-coloured sweaters and trousers.

她们穿什么:

Lisa Cuddy医生穿着贴身的名牌套裙和低胸的上衣以及高跟鞋。Allison Cameron医生最喜欢颜色中性的毛衣和裤装。

What’s worth taking away: a little femininity (but not too much!) in the workplace is OK.

What’s not: cleavage-revealing tops and jackets.

值得学习的:工作场合中,表露一些女性色彩(不要太多)是合适的。

不值得学习的:露出乳沟的上衣和短外套

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跟她们学什么:裂痕

What they wear:

dark or neutral suits with freshly-pressed button-down blouses for litigator Patty Hewes (Glenn Close). Law firm associate Ellen Parsons (Rose Byrne) wears skirt suits and conservative, dark coloured dresses.

她们穿什么:

诉讼律师Patty Hewes穿的是暗色或者中性颜色的套装搭配熨好的领口解开的衬衫。事务所助理Ellen Parsons穿的是套裙和传统的深色套装。

What’s worth taking away: button-down shirts are both chic and appropriate as long as they aren’t too unbuttoned.

What’s not: navy pinstripes can look harsh. Wear with caution.

值得学习的:只要扣子不解开太多,领口解开的衬衫很时尚也很适合。

不值得学习的:海军式条纹西装看上去会有点刺眼,穿的时候要小心。

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