In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations, the new needs friends.

Last night, I experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto: Anyone can cook. But I realize, only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau's, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon, hungry for more.

从某种程度上说,评论家要做的事情很容易。我们不用冒什么风险,只需带着高高在上的优越感,对他人的厨艺和作风评头论足。我们总是从我们所写的负面评论文章中赢得荣誉,因为那比较好写,也更容易吸引眼球。然而有一个我们不得不承认的残酷现实,那就是——再怎么看,一道最普通的菜肴都比我们的一纸空谈要有意义得多。然而有些时候,当评论家们发现一些新鲜事物,并决心为之说好话的时候,却又要承担一些风险。年轻的天才、新颖的创举往往必须面对着整个世界的敌意;而他们渴望知音。

昨晚,我有了一次全新的体验,品尝了一道异乎寻常的美味,出自某个想都不敢想的厨师之手。这道美味以及它的创造者改变了我对厨艺的肤浅看法,他们彻底颠覆了我的内心。过去我曾口无遮拦地对古斯特主厨的那句名言“人人都能做菜”加以嘲讽。直到如今,我才明白他那句话的真正含义。并不是所有人都能够成为伟大的艺术家,而一位伟大的艺术家却可能来自任何一个角落。难以想象现在古斯特餐厅掌勺的天才大厨竟是如此卑微不起眼的出生,但他可以说是,从我评论家的眼光看,巴黎最一流的主厨。我迫不及待地想要重返古斯特餐厅,渴望品味更多他的杰作。