追寻失落的圆明园
A Paradise Lost—The Imperial Garden Yuanming Yuan

作者介绍:汪荣祖,西雅图华盛顿大学历史学博士。历任美国弗吉尼亚州立大学教授、澳洲国立大学访问研究员。现任台湾“中央大学”人文研究中心主任、美国弗吉尼亚州立大学荣誉教授。

内容简介:第一部以西方语言写就的全面介绍圆明园从缘起、兴建、扩充,到其被毁、重修等盛衰荣辱的历史,更以珍贵照片及原创手绘介绍圆明园的布局、功能等。

Scenic Structures in the Original Yuanming Yuan
圆明园本园的景观结构

The original configuration of the imperial garden before the completion of the Sea of Blessing (Fu Hai) was square in shape. It consisted of three principal groups of man-made structures, namely, the administrative buildings, the royal residence compound, and a complex of rural scenes spreading along the central axis from south to north, in addition to numerous composite smaller enclosures scattered throughout the huge garden.
这座帝王宫苑在福海完工之前的本园布局是正方形。它由三个主要的人工建筑群所组成,即行政建筑、皇家居住区和乡村景色的综合体,沿着中轴线由南往北伸展,另外还有非常之多的小区,遍布在这座巨大的宫苑之中。

The main entrance, facing south, was named the Grand Palace Gate (Da’gongmen); it was one of the garden’s eighteen major gates. On top of the gate hung a wooden tablet with three large Chinese characters, yuan ming yuan, in the style of Kangxi’s calligraphy. Centered in front of the Grand Palace Gate was a five-column-wide section of rooms used as office space for representatives from virtually all major government agencies, including the Grand Secretariat (Nei Ge), the six boards, Hanlin Academy, and the Bureau of the Clansmen (Zongren Fu). Beyond the main gate was the Inner Palace Gate, or the Gentlemen’s Entrance (Churu Xianliang Men), guarded by a pair of gilt dragons across an arch bridge over a moat. On both sides of the entrance there were rooms for visitors to wait. This was the place where the emperor reviewed the annual archery contest of his troops.
主要的入口处朝南的大宫门,是园里18个主要宫门的其中一个。在这道宫门的顶端挂着一幅木制匾额,刻有“圆明园”这三个由康熙亲笔书写的大字。在大宫门前面的中央是五楹宽的一大排房间,作为几乎所有主要政府部门(包括内阁、六部、翰林院、宗人府)的官员办公的地方。越过这道宫门就是二宫门或者叫“出入贤良门”,由在拱桥上跨过护城河的一对镀金龙守护着,在入口的两侧有供来人候旨的房间,这里也是皇帝每年校阅军队与比试射艺的地方。

Zhengda Guangming Dian (Main Audience Hall). Sketch by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
正大光明殿。王绰和郁欣白绘制。

The grand Main Audience Hall (Zhengda Guangming Dian), the name of which means open-mindedness and magnanimousness appropriate to a great ruler, stood at a central position inside the Inner Palace Gate. This piece of architecture was a replica of the imperial audience hall called Great Harmony Hall (Taihe Dian) in the Forbidden City. It was “well adorned exteriorly with paint and gilding, and netted with iron wire under the fretted eaves to keep the birds off”.
正大光明殿坐落在二宫门里的正中央位置,其名意谓伟大统治者之胸襟开阔。这部分的建筑是完全依照紫禁城里的主殿太和殿复制而成。这座主殿的外观以油漆和镀金来装饰,在层层交叠的屋檐下有铁丝织成的网来阻止飞鸟接近。

The hall had seven columns made of solid wood, 129 feet long and 63 feet wide, sitting on a 4-foot-high terrace of round stone pedestals, each 2 feet 9 inches in diameter. Inside, an “antithetical couplet” (duilian) written by Emperor Yongzheng himself was displayed on a pair of scrolls hanging on each side of the hall in symmetrical fashion. The building’s floors were paved with dalishi (slabs of a white marble veined in black) 2 feet square and about 3 inches thick on a brick-lime foundation ascended by three sets of stone steps. In the front there was an open courtyard with two side halls (piandian) on each side, and in the back a rock hill resembling a gigantic jade bamboo shoot in upright form. This hall was the place where the emperor met with his officials and foreign dignitaries as well as served banquets, in particular the grand banquets for such special occasions as the emperor’s birthday, and the metropolitan examinations. In general, this administrative section, with the Main Audience Hall as its principal structure, is a large enclosure surrounded by walls. Looking out from inside one could catch the pleasant views of dark-foliaged trees and flowers mixed red with purple. With the rise of the imperial garden’s political stature, this audience hall soon acquired two wings. The east wing provided office space for the grand councilors (junji), who made policy decisions on a daily basis, while the west wing was used as waiting rooms. The Qianlong Emperor designated this place the first of his Forty Views.
殿堂高129英尺(约39米),宽63英尺(约19米),有七根直径为2.9英尺(约84厘米)的原木柱子竖立在4英尺(约1.2米)高的圆形石墩上,在殿堂内有雍正皇帝御笔亲书的一副对联匀称地挂在两侧。由三级石阶登上石灰砖的地面,上面铺满约2英尺(60厘米)长、3英寸(8厘米)厚的方形大理石。主殿前面是一个开放式的庭院,两侧各有一座偏殿,而主殿的后方有一座石山像巨大的玉竹笔直竖立。这座殿堂是皇帝用来接见他的官员和外国贵宾以及摆设宴会的地方——特别是为皇帝寿辰等特别节庆而举办盛宴,也是进行科举殿试的场所。一般来说,这个行政区以院墙围闭,形成很大一片禁区,正大光明殿是这个区的最主要结构。从里面看出去,可以欣赏到林阴如盖和花卉霏红叠紫等宜人景色。随着这座帝王宫苑的政治地位上升,这座主殿堂后来也需要增加两翼。东翼是给军机大臣每天处理政事的办公地方,而西翼就用作候旨的厢房。在乾隆皇帝的四十景里,这是他命名的第一处景观。

Jiuzhou Qingyan showing Feng Sanwusi Dian (Honoring Three Selflessnesses Court) in the lower center. Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“九州清晏”,奉三无私殿位于图中下方。王绰和郁欣白绘制。


To the east of the Main Audience Hall was the Diligent Court, or the Royal Office Room (Qinzheng Dian). It contained a large compound of halls, with the Baohe and Taihe Courts in the middle sandwiched by the Flush Spring Chamber (Fuchun Lou) in the back and the Fragrant Azure Grove (Fangbi Cong) in the front. This court was the place in which the Qing emperors summoned officials, read memorials, or ate simple meals; comparable with the Qianqing Palace in the Forbidden City. A large screen behind the throne in the main office room showed two big Chinese characters, wu yi, meaning not to indulge in pleasure. This place provided the Qing emperors from Yongzheng onward with the administrative space to conduct state affairs. Qianlong designated it as the scene of the “Diligent and Talented Government” (Qinzheng Qinxian).
往正大光明殿的东边走去,就是勤政殿,这是由许多殿堂组成的一个大庭院,富春楼在后面,芳碧丛在前面,中间夹着保和殿与太和正殿三楹。勤政殿是清代皇帝接见臣工、审阅奏章和简单用膳的地方,作用跟紫禁城里的乾清宫一样。在这个主要听政室内龙座后面的大屏风上,写了“无逸”两个大字,意思是勉励不要纵情逸乐。自雍正之后,这个地方就成为清朝皇帝用来处理国家大事的听政场所,乾隆给这个景点命名为“勤政亲贤”。

Behind this administrative section across the Front Lake (Qian Hu) was the royal residential area called Nine Continents, consisting of nine islets, connected by bridges and encircling the 200-square foot Rear Lake (Hou Hu).17 The so-called Nine Continents, ostensibly from the Confucian Book of History, refer to the known world in ancient China. The Yongzheng Emperor, who named this area, wanted to signify his universal empire surrounded by the seas and to symbolize “all under heaven” (tianxia) under peace and prosperity. I contest that neither Yongzheng nor Qianlong ever considered the miniature Nine Continents to be an example of the “last radiance of the setting sun” (luori yuhui) in the history of the imperial garden construction. I think that it is a misunderstanding for Wang Yi to assert that creating the immense universe in miniature unknowingly displayed the loss of a broad intellectual vista and a sign of the decline of the imperial grandeur. It is a remarkable art to “create a world in a pot.” Rather than losing a broad intellectual vista, such a design implies exactly the majestic worldview the imperial ruler entertained. It is in effect a vital aesthetic element in the Chinese garden art, which allows a small man-made structure to symbolize the immense nature, not just a part of the earth but also a part of the universe.
在这个听政场所的后面越过前湖,就是皇帝寝宫所在的“九州”,由九个小岛组成,围绕着200平方英尺(约19平方米)大的后湖,以桥连接。这个所谓的“九州”,明显出自儒家的《尚书》,指古代中国所了解的世界。雍正皇帝给这个地方命名为“九州”,是希望表示整个帝国是在四海之内,并象征天下和平与繁荣。我不认为雍正或乾隆以“九州清晏”作为“九州”的缩影是皇家宫苑的“落日余晖”。王毅误以为将无限的空间压缩在一隅是要把“芥子纳须弥”,象征帝王宏伟气象的丧失。其实,创造“壶中天地”乃是非凡的艺术。这种设计不仅不会丧失宏伟的观瞻,正好符合帝王的远大世界观,也是中国园林艺术里最重要的美学内涵,让小小的人工建筑去表现无边际的大自然,不仅是天地的一部分,更是宇宙的一部分。

As a matter of fact, most classical Chinese gardens are enclosed within a limited area but with the clear intention of creating a sense of infinite space. The creation of spaciousness is the essence of garden art. Condensation that produces the effect of making the small look like the spacious is no doubt a refined technique. And the Nine Continents in the Yuanming Yuan are precisely the grand center of this magnificent imperial garden symbolizing the universal Chinese world. It is surely through symbolism that the feeling of grandness rather than smallness communicated.
事实上,虽然许多经典的中国园林是划定有限的范围,但都有清晰的意图去创造无限空间的感觉。塑造宽敞空间的意象是园林艺术的基本精髓。压缩的效果若能从小见大,因近及远,乃是一种精巧的手艺。在圆明园里的“九州”恰好是这座雄伟的帝王宫苑之重要中心,象征着完整的中国世界,这种雄伟而非狭小的感觉正是经由象征主义传达出来的。

The islet on the north-south axis in the Nine Continents accommo-dated three architectural units in a row from north to south, namely, the seven-column-wide Nine Continents in Peace Hall (Jiuzhou Qingyan), the Honoring Three Selflessnesses Court (Feng Sanwusi Dian), and the five-column-wide Yuanming Yuan court facing the Front Lake. The row of three courts laid on the central axis with the Grand Palace Gate. On the east side of these courts stood Family of Spring Between Heaven and Earth (Tiandi Yijiachun) and the Benevolence Receiving Hall (Cheng’en Tang). The latter hall housed apartments for imperial ladies to live. On the west side of these three courts was the eminent Clear Sunshine Belvedere (Qinghui Ge) in which, on its northern wall, the map of the Yuanming Yuan was hung between 1737 and 1860. Sandwiched between two small lakes, the emperor’s own bedroom was also located in this vast compound, which Qianlong designated as the Nine Continents in Peace (Jiuzhou Qingyan). This designation seems to suggest that the emperor wished to survey “all under heaven” in microcosm.
在“九州”南北轴线上的岛屿,容纳了三座由北向南排列的建筑群,分别是七楹宽的“九州清晏”、奉三无私殿和五楹宽的圆明园殿,面向前湖。这三座宫殿排列在大宫门的中轴线上。在这三大宫殿的东边矗立着“天地一家春”和“承恩堂”。承恩堂是后宫嫔妃的住所;在三大殿的西边是有名的清辉阁,在1737年到1860年之间,圆明园四十景的绢本彩绘就是挂在这里的北壁上。皇帝的寝宫夹在两个小湖的中间,也位于这个巨大的院落里,乾隆名之为“九州清晏”。从这个命名看得出乾隆皇帝希望在小宇宙里一窥天下。

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宏观上呈现圆明园布局、扩建、焚毁、修复的漫长变迁,亦于细节处勾勒园林建筑、生活起居与日常运行的点滴,回溯“万园之园”曾经的苦难与辉煌。

《追寻失落的圆明园》

汪荣祖(著) 钟志恒(译)

外语教学与研究出版社