耐克今年的奥运会运动员特供服装终于出来了,不少粉丝已经盼了很久,不过……大家似乎对这一次的衣服不怎么满意。本次的这个特别系列极其简单,很多人觉得压根就是没设计。而设计师也说这一次的设计宗旨基本也就是没什么设计,尽量简单。据说这是为了贴合本次奥运的主题——可持续发展。

总之,这次的衣服就是这个样子了。不过同期推出的鞋子还不错。

It’s easy to remember the 2012 Olympic Games, when the U.S. women’s gymnastics team won gold. The image is still burned into my retinas, not from the athletes’ blinding smiles, but from what they wore on the podium that evening: Gray and black tracksuits punctuated by electrically lime Nike “Volt” colored sneakers—a color that was suddenly everywhere, and is still fetishized by the high-design techwear industry. 

人们很容易想起,在2012年奥运会上,美国女子体操队赢得金牌时的情景。如今依然浮现在我眼前的不是运动员们灿烂的笑脸,而是她们当晚在领奖台上穿着的灰黑相间的运动服以及耐克荧光灰色的“Volt”(伏特)运动鞋,当时这种荧光灰突然流行起来,而如今它依然备受时尚设计服装行业的追捧。

Volt has continued to be the color of progress in sports, a literal, brighter future looking right at you—and so over the years, Nike has resurrected it for important product launches.

Volt一直代表着体育行业发展中的流行色,包含着你将迎来更美好的未来的意味,因此,多年来,耐克在发布重要的产品时重新启用了该品牌。

But at this year’s Olympics in Tokyo, the tracksuits and shoes that Nike will provide athletes are a complete 180 from previous years. The uniforms are neutral in color—they appear to be white, but are actually a very faint gray. 

然而,为了迎接今年的东京奥运会,耐克为运动员提供的运动服和运动鞋则与往年完全不同。其运动服的颜色是素净的——它们看上去是白色的,但实际上是浅灰色的。

“This year . . . it’s almost a denial of color . . . that we think is gonna be [the standout],” says John Hoke, chief design officer at Nike. He jokingly calls the new aesthetic “rawthentic.”

“今年的设计……几乎是对颜色的否定……但我们认为这会[很突出],”耐克首席设计师约翰·霍克说道。他笑称这种新的美学“自然且真实”(rawthentic)。

Nike is reading the room: Both Japan and the Olympic Committee have made sustainability a big priority for the 2020 games. 

耐克正在揣摩这次机会:日本和奥委会都把可持续发展作为2020年奥运会的一大优先事项。

If all goes as planned, they will be powered 100% by renewable energy. Disposable plates and cups will be made from 65% renewable material. The city is trapping rainwater to be used for cleaning venues. Even the medals themselves are made from recycled materials—the precious metals inside were mined from 47 tons of old electronics, donated by citizens across Japan.

如果一切按计划进行,则一切都可以用可再生能源提供动力。一次性盘子和杯子将由65%的可再生材料制成。东京在收集雨水以用于清洁比赛场馆。甚至连奖牌都是用回收材料制成的——奖牌中的贵金属是从47吨旧电子产品中提取出来的,而这些电子产品则是由日本各地的市民捐赠的。

Why the lack of color? It’s both a function and symbol of sustainability as Nike moves to what it calls a “zero waste” production process. The jacket is made from 100% recycled polyester. The pants are made from 100% recycled nylon and polyester. The shape of its silhouette makes some concessions for efficient, puzzle piece-like pattern cutting, which allows Nike to use almost all of the fabric on a spool in the garments. Nike could have dyed the material, but instead, the company left it raw to signal its own virtue.

那为什么(耐克的设计)缺乏色彩呢?因为这既是一种表现,又是可持续发展的象征,而且耐克正在转向所谓的“零浪费”生产流程。它的夹克杉完全是用回收的聚酯纤维制成的。它的裤子则完全是用回收的尼龙和聚酯纤维制成的。为了提高效率且以拼图的模式进行裁剪,耐克在轮廓形状上做出了一些让步,这使它几乎可以把络纱机上所有的织物都用在衣服上。耐克本可以为这种材料染色的,然而,该公司却使其保持了原样,以彰显其优点。

多知道一点

2020年东京奥运会

今年东京奥运会的各项工作已经火热启动,东京奥运会圣火将于2020年3月12日在希腊完成采集,在希腊国内接力传递1周,3月19日在位于希腊雅典的帕纳辛奈科体育场举行交接仪式。

东京申办成功后,成为继巴黎、伦敦、洛杉矶和雅典后的世界第5个至少两次举办夏季奥运会的城市,同时也是亚洲第一个。

不过现在还存在一些问题没有解决,2019年有专家指出,2020年东京奥运会的一处帆船场地一旦发生地震引起的海啸,观众席在6分钟就会被淹没。虽然东京奥组委极力否认这件事,但专家的说法也引起了各方的担心。