ALMOND EYES

Eyeliner is often a failsafe for creating a dramatic makeup look but your tried and tested technique may not be the most flattering for your eye shape - or your face. Makeup artist for Kate Moss has revealed the eye-opening tricks that will flatter all face shapes.
想要艳惊四座的美妆效果,画眼线自然屡试不爽,但你的惯用技法未必最能衬托你的眼形和脸蛋。凯特·摩斯的美妆师透露了一些化妆技巧,可以让眼睛看起来更大,衬托所有脸型。

Although almond eyes are the 'perfect' eye shape, the makeup artist advises a feline flick because it 'accentuates the symmetry.' Draw an invisible line from under the eye then draw an actual line from the outer corner to meet the dot. This gives an even flick on both eyes.
尽管杏眼是“完美”眼形,美妆师还是建议画条猫眼眼线,因为可以“加强对称感”。在眼下画隐形线,然后从外眼角画眼线,两线交汇于一点。这样,双眼眼线上扬程度一致。

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BIG EYES

Choose sultry eye makeup, with a thick rim of black liner on the upper lid, and a thin liner on the lower lid, drawing attention to the outer sections of the eye.
选择性感的眼妆,沿上眼睑轮廓画厚重的黑色眼线,下眼睑画淡些,把注意力吸引到眼睛外围。

A smudged liner works well either above or below the eye. The trick is to extend to the outer corner of the eye and make the line more of a square shape.
无论上下眼睑,眼线晕开都恰如其分。秘诀是延展外眼角,让眼线看起来更方正。

SMALL EYES

For small eyes, to draw attention more dramatic liner is needed. Curling the lashes is recommended to make eyes appear wider.
对于小眼睛,就得画夸张的眼线吸引注意力。推荐卷曲睫毛,让眼睛看起来更宽。

Apply creamy white pencil or colourful liner to the inner rim which creates the illusion of wider eyes. When using eye shadow extend to the outer corners of the eye as a winged effect will also help create the illusion of bigger eyes. Apply false lashes to enlarge the eyes.
用奶白色的眼线笔或者彩笔涂内眼眶,营造双眼大开的视觉假象。眼影有双重效果,涂到外眼角也有助营造大眼效果。佩戴假睫毛让眼睛看起来更大。

HEAVY LIDS

For heavy lids where colour can sometimes get lost, contouring the lid first can help. Using a matt contouring shade in the lids is a good way to give the illusion of a deeper set socket. Also create a straight brow shape with only a slight arch. Anything too arched will only accentuate the lids. Use more liner on the lower lid to balance.
眼皮厚重容易掉色,先勾画出眼睑轮廓有助改善。用哑光眼影打眼睑轮廓,这是营造深眼窝错觉的好方法。同时,打造平直、稍有弧度的眉形。任何有棱有角的线条只会突出眼睑。下眼睑加重眼线达到平衡效果。

CLOSE SET EYES

For close-set eyes, highlighter in the inner corners is suggested - then use darker shades only on the outer corner of the eye. Any metallic or light colours should be applied to the inner part and any dark or smoky colours to the outer to extend it. Only use false eyelashes on the outer corners.
眼距近的话,建议内眼角打高光——然后外眼角涂深色眼影。任何金属色系或者浅色都应涂在内眼角,深色或烟熏色涂在外围达到延展效果。假睫毛只用在外眼角。

ALL EYES

But for an eye style which works on all eye types, a softer smoky eye is recommended. It can be created using softer shades such as browns or even greens or go bold with metallic colours. Line the inner eye with a white pencil to open the eye, then use black or deep tones to line. If you want to introduce colour, use a metallic colour in the inner corner of your eyelids.
若问哪种眼妆风格任何眼形都适用,当首推柔和的烟熏妆。也可以用柔和的色彩,比如棕色甚至绿色,或者大胆尝试金属色。内眼角用白色眼线笔勾画,开眼角,然后用黑色或深色系勾画。如果要加入其它色彩,在眼睑内眼角处运用金属色系。