Madam Sixty Ate餐厅的兔肉阔面

For those looking for a cozy and slightly more upscale lunch venue in Hong Kong's Wan Chai district that's not, say, The Pawn, there's a new contender on the block (the same block, actually): Madam Sixty Ate, which opened last week in the J Senses building.
想在香港湾仔区找一个舒适又略微高档一点的地方吃午餐，但是却不想去The Pawn的话，那么在这个街区（的确就是在同一个街区）如今有了一个新去处──Madam Sixty Ate。这家餐厅于6月底开张，地点在J Senses大厦。

For those looking for a cozy and slightly more upscale lunch venue in Hong Kong's Wan Chai district that's not, say, The Pawn, there's a new contender on the block (the same block, actually): Madam Sixty Ate, which opened last week in the J Senses building.
该餐厅的设计模仿了具有某些法国格调的高雅的女性起居室的风格──Madam Sixty Ate是一位虚构的女士──到处都呈现着舒适的家居气息：从开放式厨房到印着小鸟图案的壁纸、杯垫上可爱的动物素描。免费赠送的现烤面包也强化了这种氛围，面包上抹的是熏黄油，也比普通黄油感觉更为亲切，只是面包烤得略欠火候。

So it was a bit of a disappointment to flip to the set-lunch menu and discover only one option for each course. The two-course option is fairly priced at 148 Hong Kong dollars (US$19) and the three-course at HK$178, but the lack of choice inevitably made us reach for the pricier a la carte menu to round out our meal. Also disappointing: Coffee and tea aren't included with the set lunch.
翻开午餐套餐菜单，发现每种套餐都只有一种选择之后，你也许会略感失望。两道菜的套餐价格为148港币（约19美元），三道菜套餐的价格是178港币，算是比较公道的。但是因为缺少选择，我们不得不拿过单点菜单来加点其他菜。令人失望的地方还有：咖啡和茶水不包括在套餐价格之内。

It's hard to pin down the restaurant's overarching theme (beyond the whimsical story of this Madam), as the menu is chockablock with flavors from all over─French, Italian, British, to name a few. We were later told that the emphasis is on the freshness of the ingredients, with everything made in the kitchen as much as possible.
很难说清楚这家餐厅的根本主题是什么（除了有关那位女士的离奇故事之外），因为菜单上的菜品囊括了所有风味──法式、意式、英式，等等。后来，我们得知，这家餐厅强调的是新鲜的用料，所有材料都尽量自己在厨房里烹制而成。

A simple appetizer, ceviche, was overcomplicated. The sight of foam was a red flag that the dish may have strayed too far from the simplicity of this Peruvian staple. The fish, usually thinly sliced, came dry and thick, overpowered by the citrus sauce and foam. At HK$95 for five small pieces of fish, we regretted taking the rare chance to try ceviche instead of going with the more commonly available pork belly, though the pork had been highly recommended to us by others.
橙汁腌鱼这一道简单的开胃菜做得太过复杂。一看盘中的酱糊就知道：烹制流程大大偏离了这道秘鲁菜简单随意的原则。鱼片照道理该切得很薄的，但我们盘中的鱼片却是厚厚的干巴巴的，而且在橙汁和酱糊里浸泡得过久。标价95港币，端上来却只有很小的五片鱼。我们很后悔，当初不应该为了品尝难得的橙汁腌鱼，而没有选择常见的五花肉片，五花肉片可是有人向我们强烈推荐过的。

The mains fared much better. The chicken leg confit, part of the lunch set, was tender and deliciously infused with bacon, while the accompanying roesti (a sort of hash brown) had the comforting texture reminiscent of a bubble and squeak.
主菜要好得多。午餐套餐中的油封鸡腿细嫩可口，还有些许培根的香味。和鸡腿一起上桌的瑞士土豆饼口感细腻，不禁让人想起了传统的英国菜“卷心菜煎土豆”。

From the a la carte menu, the rabbit with papardelle (HK$180) impressed, not least because it's rare to find a rabbit dish not drenched in a heavy tomato-based sauce. This one was braised and served with a refreshing lemon foam and green-olive sauce, perfect for a hearty but not overindulgent lunch. The only complaint was that the papardelle was undercooked in parts.
单点菜单上的兔肉阔面（180港币）让人垂涎欲滴，要知道一般餐厅的兔肉通常都是泡在浓稠的番茄酱里的，这里则是将兔肉炖熟之后，加入了美味爽口的柠檬酱糊和绿橄榄沙司。这道菜做午餐，营养丰盛又不至于太过奢侈。唯一的缺憾就是阔面有的地方没有熟透。

Dessert, included in the set lunch, was a sumptuous blood-orange crème brulee with sorbet and an anis macaroon. It was closer to custard in texture but not too heavy, thanks to the citrus flavor.
午餐套餐中包括了甜点，是华丽丽的血橙焦糖布丁配果汁冰糕和茴香蛋白杏仁饼干。焦糖布丁在口感上与牛奶蛋冻很接近，但没有牛奶蛋冻的味道那么浓烈，这是因为其中加入了柑橘香精。

Lunch for two came in at over HK$500, and that included a 50% discount during the soft opening week, which, we weren't told, applied only to the a la carte menu. No doubt Madam Sixty Ate will be the new go-to spot for business lunches in Wan Chai, where there's a dearth of such venues. But try as Madam might to make you feel at home and welcome, the price tag on her hospitality may make you wince.
两个人的午餐花了500港币，还是算上了试营业第一周推出半价优惠之后的价格。后来得知，优惠活动只针对单点的菜肴。毫无疑问，Madam Sixty Ate将成为湾仔地区上班族解决午餐问题的新去处，这里很缺这样的餐馆。但是尽管这家餐馆努力营造一种宾至如归的感觉，其热情好客背后的高价格让却令人敬而远之。